This page contains a lot of the common questions and answers related to the D7 Resin printer. If you have a question would like answered or have information that you would like to add to the Faq page, use the request form to send the information.
The NanoDLP image on this website has the operating system partition compressed so the download will be smaller. The last step on the instructions is to expand the partition to use the full SD free space. Please refer to this step on this page.
- Select Setup then Tools then Expand File system and wait a few minutes for the file system to expand and reboot then refresh your browser.
The idea is get the leadscrew into the coupler when installing about 1/2 into the coupler, tighten the setscrews to it. Now slide the coupler over the motor shaft until the 2 shafts mate inside the coupler. Now using your hand or just the hex key in the setscrew of the motor half side of the coupler, slightly stretch it down and tighten in the slightly stretched position. This pretensions it so that the 2 shafts are pulled together with force.
The best indicator is the green / blue light (different depending on the version) LED on the HDMI board (the board closest to the UV light, see photo below). Here is a description and possible causes based on the HDMI LED:
Basically the green indicator LED on the HDMI board has a few states:
- No light = no power, either the fuse onboard is blown or the system is not sending 5V power to the USB cable that plugs into that board. Test by using a different cable powered from a USB port on the computer.
- Flashing= board has power, but incorrect HDMI signal or no signal is present.
- Solid= good valid HDMI signal is being sent to the board.
The LCD module is very fragile and many units have been delivered with the LCD damaged during shipping. Check this page for photos and suggestions. The newest D7 units are now shipping with an acrylic backing plate on the LCD to help protect it.
- If the LCD shows a white circle when the UV is turned on (issue gcode M106 or use CW / NanoDLP to turn on the UV Lamp) then it could have been damaged by pressure on that spot.
- If the LCD is showing half an image longways then the LCD cables could be loose. Carefully check them with instructions from this page.
- Check that the orientation of the secondary screen on the PC (if using Creation Workshop) is set to Landscape.
The initial bed / LCD size was set incorrectly in CW or nanodlp for the D7. Prints are oval or incorrect XY size.
In CW adjust the Build Size to 120 x 68 x 180 and make sure the resolution is 2560×1440.
CW calculates the x and y microns using the dimensions entered and the configured x / y resolution so having the bed (LCD size) size set wrong will throw off the calculations at the slicing point during the toolchain to print.
Based on the LCD screen information with an active area of 68.04 x 120.68 mm and 1440×2560 pixels I believe the X and Y pixel size should be 47.25. If you are using the old numbers shown below and your print size is off slightly then you can try the new numbers.
Y of 68.04mm * 1000 / 1440 = 47.25 and X of 120.68mm *1000 / 2560 = 47.25. This Pixel Pitch also matches the pixel size shown in what we think is the LCD Spec (the (H) number will by x3 since it is RGB):
Old information: Nanodlp you enter 46.875 microns for X and 47.222 for Y. Formula is LCD mm * 1000 / LCD Resolution, i.e.: 68mm*1000/1440 = 47.222
The older version of nanodlp would use one value for both x and y. After upgrading and going into setup it will want you to enter a value for Y, I just coped the X over to Y. Assuming the CW settings are exact, this works out to 46.875 microns for X and 47.222 for Y. Formula is LCD mm * 1000 / LCD Resolution, i.e.: 68mm*1000/1440 = 47.222