This article was featured on Hackaday and I found it was full of good information on stepper motor selection, hot beds, drivers, etc.
3D printers have become incredibly cheap, you can get a fully workable unit for $200 – even without throwing your money down a crowdfunded abyss. Looking at the folks who still buy kits or even build their own 3D printer from scratch, investing far more than those $200 and so many hours of work into a machine you can buy for cheap, the question “Why the heck would you do that?” may justifiably arise.
The answer is simple: DIY 3D printers done right are rugged workhorses. They work every single time, they never break, and even if: they are an inexhaustible source of spare parts for themselves. They have exactly the quality and functionality you build them to have. No clutter and nothing’s missing. However, the term DIY 3D printer, in its current commonly accepted use, actually means: the first and the last 3D printer someone ever built, which often ends in the amazing disappointment machine.
This post is dedicated to unlocking the full potential in all of these builds, and to turning almost any combination of threaded rods and plywood into a workshop-grade piece of equipment.
View article on Hackaday
I would like to build a good core xy machine, but I am struggling to find good info. I would like to use real linear rail rather than smooth rod or v wheels, with three belt synchronized lead screws for the Z stage. What do you think would be the best place to start looking for ideas and references?
Openbuilds
Carl Feneck design modded to the Triplebot – I think Adam did that. I built mine almost the same time but never posted it. My belt design is much simpler. I love this machine. Mine is turned around so the motors are in the rear. It is also 12x12x12 build platform. I can send you whatever you need, but maybe by now you are already there. If you post and I don’t respond >> bartipsnews at gmail